Sunday, November 21, 2010
Trash Backlog
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Sixteen-Cent Solution
I made a bowl of ramen noodles for lunch today.
It was the first time I've had the frugal college staple meal in probably 20 years. I was kind of dubious about it right up until I poured the steaming broth into the bowl and the flood of sensory memories came back to me.
I remember eating ramen thickened with cream cheese and broccoli as a young man. I was just starting out after school and on the cusp of a love that would last a decade. It was an exciting, scrappy time and the soup seemed like a make-do masterpiece- a revelation of possibility. We could make something presentable and excellent out of the meager supplies we had.
Years before that I sat on the floor in the basement of the art department and ate ramen raw between classes. I'd break off chunks like it was some lame granola bar. The look of astonishment on my professor's face when she saw me doing it puzzled me. I'm just eating ramen here. Doesn't everyone do this? Leave me alone, I'm doing my thing.
It's the MSG-flavored broth that holds the memory. It tastes like soup you buy in those vending machines; the kind with poker games on the side of the cup and a fortune on the bottom. I remember drinking that soup waiting in the train station in Hartford joking around with my family. The vended soup always tasted more nourishing than it was. And that's the way the ramen felt today- deeply nourishing. Drinking the broth at the bottom brought a sweat to my temple and a deep sigh to my lips as I put the bowl down.
I guess I'm feeling the past closely since the move. Some past selves seem impossibly-distant. Like you have no connection to the story of that life. Thinking it was really you then seems odd and apocryphal. Other moments are close. Like you could step out the door and into that different person's life.
But you can't and distance is a liar in both directions. So I sipped the soup and thought about it and sighed.
Saturday, October 30, 2010
The Kickball Wall
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Cruel Geometry
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Home at last.
I'm home at long last but wiped out. Got in last night, but will only work a little today. I'm physically and emotionally drained and am trying to make some sense of the last six weeks.
This trip was considerably harder than the previous in every way.
As the Lonely Planet guidebook says: "No matter how diehard you are, it's hard to find anything in Chennai to rave about". It's a tough city and we were staying out by the airport. It's hot, rough-scrabble and there isn't anything really to do. There is a tax on alcohol that ranges from 50% to 70%. Even the models and actors we saw at fashion shows and tv shoot just weren't that hot. The hotel gave us problems and the food just wasn't as good as Bangalore.
But it isn't just our entertainment and creature comforts; Chennai was a depressing city that assaulted your good will. Poverty and slums were always a step away and it was hard to miss. People relieve themselves everywhere and it's muddy and dirty. Everyone gets sick and has a perpetual cough.
The work was harder, longer and more desperately required. Starting something is easy; finishing it is hard. This trip we were trying to wrap things up but there was a lot conspiring against us. You can only do so much, but working hard and not getting the results you want is difficult. And I had to do some things as a manager that were hard
It was a tough trip.
But it was a great trip.
This trip had a lot of growth experiences built into it. And those kind of experiences aren't always pleasant. You can wrinkle you nose at the guy in the elevator and think he's a creep for not bathing, but then you see how they have to get water from a hand pump every day and you start to get it. While we griped about the sub-standard showers in our hotel rooms our driver slept in the car at night and somehow looked crisp in whites in the morning. We understand these things, but It's hard to get over your upbringing and truly empathize.
We saw abject poverty and stunning riches. We saw fashion shows on the catwalk and cows eating the glue off of posters. We saw markets so dense with people that you couldn't move. We heard songs to Allah sung in the catacombs of emperor's tombs. We were threatened by a snake charmer, brow-beaten by monkey-handlers, harassed by a transgendered beggar, and stared at by nearly everyone.
We watched ceremonies to ward off the evil eye, painters etching palm leaves, security guards sleeping at their posts, lions having sex, stoneworkers at the grinding wheel, and more. Our friends went on engagement-meetings to find brides, had cake smeared on in their faces and were kicked in the air for their birthdays.
It was a great trip. It was a hard trip.
And it's the last one I will make there in the foreseeable future and I'm ok with that. I've been too long on the road. I've been away more than I've been home for the last year and a half and I need to work on reconnecting and building a life here. So, thank you India, thank you company for sending me, but now I need to put you aside and look to my home.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Marina Beach
Sorry that I have to do it again that is!
Today we went to the beach as part of a sightseeing tour. It was a both strange and familiar. I'll walk through the li'l adventure and you tell me if it reminds you of the home of Asbury Park.
We wanted to go to Fort George and maybe some shopping nearby. The Fort was kind of a dud. We weren't very interested in the churches and stuff around that our driver Money was trying to show us. But Marina Beach had some livelt interest. Take us back there, please!
Money relectanly drove us toward the beach, taking detours to show us other buildings along the way. At length we arrived, but he drove away from the action. No, no, Money- take us over there by all the vendors and stuff! Money complied but when he dropped us off he gave us a stern warning: "Be careful. Danger. Very Very."
It didn't seem dangerous. Just another beach boardwalk with vendors, families, kids, games and craziness. The game above is the traditional Pop-the-Balloon game. Except that they are using real BB guns and the only prize seemed to be the act of shooting a gun. Below is a giant robot music listening booth. Listen to music from a giant robot, only 10 paisa!Saturday, July 17, 2010
Vandalur & Dead End Shopping
Saturday we went to the Vandalur zoo. It was a sprawling affair with mostly-open air natural-style enclosures. The first thing we did was hop on one of those Jurassic Park buses and go see the lions. It was billed as a Lion Safari, but it was more like let's-drive-up-the-driveway-of-the-lion-area-and-then-turn-around-and-go-back. It lasted about 5 minutes.
But there were some close-up views, even though they were obstructed by the jostling humanity on the bus and the chicken wire and bars on the windows.
And some unusual activity.
After the lions, the driver dropped us off the middle of the park. It's made of a series of long, looping roads. We looked at the signs trying to figure out where to go, but they lacked the You Are Here legend and were mostly in Tamil. In the end, we picked a direction and headed off.
There were big cats - white tigers, panthers and jaguars. The walk was decent and there was enough shade to make things bareable, though by the end I needed a time out at the snack station. We also saw some birds, hippos and elephants, giraffes, zebras- the usual zoo stuff.
Along the way our party crossed paths with a Muslim Girl's School on an outing. One thing about Indians that we've noticed; they don't mind staring at you. You expect that when you catch someone staring at you, they will look away. Not here, they just keep staring. With these girls I'd smile and wave or say something; they just kept staring in stony silence. We were more interesting than the exhibits to some of them.
Perhaps it seemed like there was an element of disapproval from the Muslim girls. Not so with the young boys. They came up and stared, when I turned to acknowledge them, they were delighted. It was like when the monkey in the cage sees you back. They saluted and were of course happy to get the horns out for snaps. I've really enjoyed the kids on these trips.
Later in the day we tried to go shopping. We'd been blanked so far by the other shopping areas so we had high hopes for the new places our counterparts had recommended. Bangalore had so much great shopping we foolishly assumed Chennai would be the same. We struck out again.
We have pretty much given up on finding good shopping times here. Still, it was long, active day. Although we had had plans to visit some of the nightlife, we ended up calling it an early night. Tick tock, Chennai, only a few days left...
Thursday, July 15, 2010
The End of Octopus Paul
The Royal Meridien Hotel has not treated us like kings.
They have done several very rude things that beggar comprehension.
For the most part, we have made few friends here among the staff. That's kind of unusual for long stays like this.
Chef William is the exception.
He's a big, happy Chinese guy whose favorite thing is to come in beside you and put his head next to yours as though he was posing for a picture. He's always beaming and acting astounded and happy that you are having a nice meal. He likes to send little treats and surprises over to our table to see what we think of them.
One day Mike asked him about the South Indian coffee. They make it by mixing a thick coffee syrup with steamed milk. Often they do it at the table so you can have them adjust the strength. Delicious, but how do you make the syrup? Mike asked Chef and he brought out the coffee maker and explained how it works. We never would have figured it out on our own; the brewer looks nothing like a Western coffee maker. Val and Jona went out and bought them following William's help.
On one of the first weekends, Mike and Jona had dumplings at the buffet that they raved about. Since Chef was always ready to whip us up some goodies, I asked for a some. He was a bit crestfallen; they could not be prepared immediately, but if we came back tomorrow night he would make a special dinner just for us. It turned out to be a multi-course dim sum feast. A delicious and welcome change of pace from rice.
During the meal we told him that Mike and Jona were leaving soon. Chef seemed a bit broken-hearted to lose such dear friends but took comfort in the idea that he could make us another special dinner; cooked at our table around the grill. Sure, Chef, but we can't do dinner, we work at night. Chef decides to break custom and do it as lunch.
It was a great lunch, even though it was embarassingly large. There was a salad and then a veggie course followed by shrimp, chicken, fish, beef, octopus, rice, soup and desert courses.
Now, the octopus was the star of the show. Chef took great delight in revealing it. "Oooh" he would laugh "No more World Cup! Octopus Paul work all done! Now we eat him!"
He cooked it for a long time. As you see here he cooked it intact on the grill. Paul had been marinating a while and be the time Chef William declared him finished he was amazingly tender. Not the usual octopus snap you get, but firm, yet giving. Very flavorful.
At this point, Chef William could cook us pretty much anything he wants. Since then he's come over to us at lunch a couple times and cooked us whatever he had in mind. Steamed ginger fish, udon, that sort of thing. All better than the merely-functional buffet. Now this is the test. Chef William told us that he has a once-in-a-lifetime treat and did we want it? Sure, Chef, we'll eat whatever you put in front of us.
Ok, the course is silkworm.
Hmmmm. We want to, but our brains rebel. Tomorow night is the night we can have them. Will we be brave and do it? Time will tell....
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Mike Mhley, the Universe is Calling
This is Mike Mhley.
I've known him for a long time and have spent two months in India with him on two separate trips this year.
He's been a good travelling companion. Quick-witted, and even-tempered, he's been a great source of humor and a calming perspective during some trying times.
For example, he got off a plane the first trip and slid straight into hectic shopping situations on Brigade road without batting an eye. It took most of us several days to get aclimated; Mike did it within hours and was cracking jokes right away.
When things changed and we needed him to do different things, he did them without complaining and got it done.
And he has a way of making you like him. The girls in every trip have fallen in love with him and titter and laugh when he goes by. Here he charms a goat into posing for pictures. Incidentally, the shirt he's wearing declares that "Vegas is for Pussies".
Mike believes in the book The Secret. I don't really understand it, but basically the book tells how you put positive wishes out into the Universe and they are granted. When you fret and are negative, the things you worry about come to pass as well. It has something to do with electricity and maybe G0d and karma. We would joke about; "Oh Universe, please help me out here." or when something goes right "Thank you, Universe."
Well the Universe is taking in Mikey in a different direction and I'm thinking about him today.
I don't really believe that Things Happen For a Reason and stuff like that, but I do have faith that people can bounce and change doesn't have to be bad, even if it is often painful. Mike has skills, talent and puts love into what he does. The Universe is taking him somewhere and I'm just glad that it brought him into my orbit for a little while. I've learned from him and enjoyed his company.
Thanks, Universe.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
At Loose Ends
Today is Mike and Jona's last full work day. We're sad to see them go, and it throws the reality of the timeline into sharp focus. As the end of this trip approaches we get restless. The work mission has some real challenges, but there is only so much you can do. You get anxious, wanting you trip to be an unqualified success.
To distract myself in the few minutes I have to myself, here are some snaps.
Dan, this one's for you:
This guy is Sathya Sai Baba. He and his previous incarnation Shri Sai Baba are very popular here. Well, at least Shri Sai Baba is. In Bangalore Ganesh was on every dashboard. Here it's Sai Baba. Sai Baba was a real-life guy who became a saint around the turn of the century. He combines Hindu and Muslim elements into his teaching.
The other guy, with the huge afro is his reincarnation.
Or maybe he's just a con man who knows some magic tricks and founded a charity organization.
Either way, he has a fun look and his iconic I Dunno shrug on a postcard gave us a lot of laughs in Bangalore. We'd be like: "When will this deliverable be ready?" Shrug. I dunno. "Will the internet actually work today?" I dunno. I'm usually sort of amused when he turns up.
Here's a coconut juice vendor in action. I bought a drink from him, He whacks it open with the cruel machete and then plops in this frail little straw. The cute, slim bendy straw potruding from the bulky husk of the coconut seems incongruent. The milk was tasty, if somewhat warmer than I had hoped for.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Sunday Shopping
This is the Thagaraya Nagar shopping district and the site of the densest non-event crowd I've ever been in. The sheer volume of human activity makes New York look quaintly staid. These are just people shopping, not seeing a ballgame or show or something, just out for a Sunday Stroll and some shopping. They were buying socks and such. This isn't a sale or anything, just a regular day.
T. Nagar, as the locals call it, is made up of all kinds of shops: large 7-story superstores, tiny hole-in-the-wall nooks, street stands, and winding, cramped warrens of improvised covered stands leading in and out of actual buildings. We tended not to like this last sort as well because it became disorienting and easy to end up turned around on the wrong street. And it's not easy to recover lost distance in T Nagar. Even in the stores you have to use this slow shuffling gait. You don't want to go blocks in the wrong direction in this heat.
We saw lots of improvisation that made us smile. This guy is a bicycle coffee vendor. He has giant bags of biscuits and other supplies strapped to the front. He is pouring the dense South Indian coffee syrup into a small plastic cup. Next, he'll dispense hot steamed milk from the spigot on the side of the metal drum strapped to the back of the back. Viola~ coffee to go for only a few rupees, please.
This is an outdoor stall. There were hundreds of these, but good luck finding anything to fit our big, Western bodies. Most things I couldn't get over my shoulders, never mind the rest of me. Val looked hard for tops, but in the end couldn't find what she wanted in the right color. All this shopping and we came up blank.
Overall, I found the crowds at T. Nagar more exciting and fun than troublesome. If I had to do real shopping there instead of mostly people-watching, my patience might wear thin. But, again: that's the most striking thing. Not that there are a million people crammed togther, it's that there are a million people crammed together and getting along with each other. The calm acceptance vibe was striking even as cars and motorcycles push through these insane crowds. Not that it was easy; we all went home and slept afterwards, just that it was astounding. Another amazing sight in India.
Chennai Fashions
And, I just need to say that this was a long, brutal work week. Lots of long hours and frustrating situations. And remind me to tell you about the fire drill. Anyway - we were ready for a little diversion.
So, a bit before the appointed hour we show up to get our tickets. But of course this task takes three helpers who run around and finally inform us that the show is at 6:30, not 6. No, wait, 7. Yeah, that's it. So we go down to the function room around 7 and nothing's doing. It ends up starting around 7:30.
The function room is full of booths by the sponsors failing to garner interest from the crowd milling around.
Mostly it was people like this dude:
Except he was one of the only other Westerners. Here he is looking happy about a foor massage that was somehow sponsored by TaTa brand water. I know, but just roll with it.
The other people waiting around seemed mostly like people's mothers and the occassional hipster type:
So, eventually the show starts and they let us in. Being VIPs of the hotel, we go to the front row and sit in seats reserved for the hotel. But then some jerky guy comes up and shoos us out of them and makes us sit in -- get this -- the Second Row! I'm scandalized by this and am beginning to be sour on the event. It was a lot of waiting, the usual people pushing you and now this guy was a jerk about how he did it. He wasn't gracious and this is like the fourth jerky thing the hotel has done to us.
Then the show starts. It's kind of amusing. One girl loses her shoes, the models are wearing these weird flowers and bees on their heads and keep doing all these corny moves as they pass each other on the catwalk. Like pantomiming "call me" and high-fiving.